Mont Blanc does not have any easy routes on skis, but the traverse of the four thousand, despite its relatively high technical level, is an elegant and direct route that is supported by the cable cars of l'Aiguille du Midi. In this way, the Col de Midi is accessible after a short descent from the exit of the upper station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car.
This route has precisely the charm of being a journey that allows the mountain skier to pass through mythical places of the mountaineeringsuch as the Col du Midi, Montblanc de Tacul, Mont Maudit, Col de la Brenva, or Montblanc itself. From the same summit with good conditions, or from a little further down, a long descent will take us towards the Grand Plateau, the Grands Mulets Refuge (3051 m) and the intermediate station of l'Aiguille du Midi located in the Plan de l' Aiguille (2233 m) and Chamonix itself (or to the intermediate station if there is not enough snow).
The Challenge
A trained and/or acclimatized group can do the entire route in a single day, leaving Chamonix with the first cable car of the day. However, the existence of several guarded refuges allows the ascent to be divided according to each group. However, from the Refuge de les Cosmiques to that of Grand Mulets, only the Refuge Vallot (4362 m) provides semi-valid coverage. The Vallot refuge is accessible if, instead of following the direct descent (recommended) along the northern slope of Mont Blanc, we decide to continue on foot along the Bosses ridge (normal route of Mont Blanc in summer).
From Grand Mulets to Plan d'Aiguille, the route descends to La Jonction (this name is indicative of the union or rather collision of several glacial basins), a place feared for its crevasses and then follows a long, partially ascending route that, depending on the state of the snow and the skier it may be advisable to use skins. If we do the crossing in one day, calculate the time well and remember the closing time of the Plan d’Aiguille cable car.
If weather, snow or other causes prevent us from making the 4000 mile crossing, the Ascending a 4000m like Mont Blanc de Tacul is a goal that alone fills the season. It must be taken into account that the terrain is very alpine and it is a mountain not to be underestimated in any aspect. The descent through the Vallée Blanche, although not without danger, will complete the ascent. This alternative will not leave you indifferent.
Precautions
The described journey, and the alternative, run through a high mountain environment that does not allow mistakes. Many groups carry it out accompanied by a guide. If you go on your own, make sure of the status of the route when making a reservation at the chosen refuge or refuges. Undertake the journey with stabilized snow and good weather forecast.
In bad weather, difficulties and dangers increase dramatically. The route runs mostly through glacial terrain and the crevasses are abundant.
It is highly recommended to carry high mountain and glacier progression equipment: rope, harness, ice axe, crampons, ice screws and crevice rescue material in addition to the usual ski mountaineering equipment.
The considerable height of the entire journey makes it advisable to have carried out activities at high altitudes in the days prior to it to guarantee good progress. If we come directly from Spain, we recommend having made a crossing at 3000 meters through the Pyrenees or Sierra Nevada a few days before.
