Thinking that I was entering the old and closed Castile, lost at some point in the 12th century, I headed towards the city. A place with special charm where you can get lost from time to time because, although the trip is tiring, it is worth it. Willing to enjoy active tourism and live thousands of unique adventures we headed towards the cathedral.
It is located near the Puentecillas bridge, the oldest (it is from Roman times), over the Carrión River (Palencia, like every self-respecting city, has a river). You cannot ignore the opportunity to tour these historical beauties, because without a doubt it is quite an experience.
It began to be built in 1321, on an old Romanesque cathedral and is consecrated to the patron saint of the city, San Antolín. Tradition says that the temple is based on the crypt where his remains were deposited (which is still preserved). The truth is that behind those austere walls, you do not expect to find the wealth that is contained in this building. Here you can find pieces from different periods and styles, some of which are true works of art from the hands of Gil de Hontañón, Gil de Siloé, Simón de Colonia, Juan de Flandes, the great Pedro Berruguete, El Greco, Juan de Valmaseada... in short, a marvel.
Now we head towards the old town of Palencia. It is an area where there are civil buildings of great architectural value such as the Casa del Cordón from the 16th century, the San Bernabé Hospital from the 12th century or the Palace del Obispo, headquarters of the Diocesan Museum. As we advance we find the Nuestra Señora de la Calle church, patron saint of the city. A quick view and a couple of photos from the crossing of the Four Cantons, take us, as always with time against us, to the area where the Church of San Miguel is located, with its impressive tower-fortress.
It's time for us to eat, so we decided to take advantage of the opportunity to discover the gastronomy of Casa Damián. Some products that will delight anyone: Castilian soups, tasty lamb, aged cheese and delicious fritters.
After dinner we went to the Plaza Mayor of Palencia, one of the nerve centers of the city. It still preserves the porticoed structure with which it was designed, so typically Castilian. Under its arcades we find buildings of great architectural interest and importance even in our time. This is the case of the City Hall Palace, the Convent of San Francisco (13th century) and the Church of La Soledad (18th century).
The next day, after enjoying the Palencia night, we decided to continue with our urban hiking, where? Through walks and gardens, which began to be built in the 19th century, in pursuit of a more rational and healthy urban planning. From this fever for Public Health, walks such as the Hall, later known as Isabel II, were born. It is a huge park with clear influences of Romanticism that leaves no one indifferent.
You can also walk through the parks of Sotillo de los Canonicos, the Huertas del Obispo, the Jardinillos de la Estación, the Carcavilla... In short, in Palencia, those who do not walk in green areas do not want to.
After a tortilla sandwich and two soft drinks, we take the car towards Monte del Otero. There we find, crowning the summit, the Cristo del Otero (1931), the work of Victorio Macho from Palencia who, for many, is one of the most emblematic Spanish sculptors of the 20th century. The truth is that the Christ, who seems to bless the city, can be seen almost from any point in Palencia.
Regarding style, it can be considered a post-cubist work, with simple and geometric shapes. Below the statue and excavated in the hill, there is a hermitage where Victorio Macho is buried and a small museum with projects of his works.
It's time to leave and I'll finally be able to rest but, yes, I've had the time of my life. I liked Palencia more than I thought and, in addition, I have really enjoyed the art and the green areas that I thought I would not find. At least the image I had at first of the city and what I would find there is not the same one I have now...
